Thursday, October 1, 2009

Mendoza, Cordoba, Salta

Mendoza, Cordoba, Salta

Mendoza; 12th-14th September

Arriving in Mendoza fairly early Saturday morning, we find our hostel, The Life House, which is central, cheap and comfortable enough, until Nico breaks the shower head … though it does have a rather odd atmosphere … one reason may be that it seemed to be the meeting point in the evening for a group of elderly people that would get together drink beer, smoke a lot of cigarettes and watch television.

Once the shower is fixed, we wash and then go to have a terrace lunch on one of the pedestrian streets, Sarmiento. We walk around for a little bit, Nicolas discovers that he loves all the old cars in the area and insists on having his picture taken with all of them, we then do our laundry, have an ice cream and then back to the hotel to sleep, as the night bus took it out of us again.

That evening we go to Avenida Villanueva, the street where all the bars can be found, for a pre-dinner drink and a snack … and we then have dinner at Estancia la Florencia, guess what, steak, again, but it’s good.

Sunday is a lazy day walking around the pretty town taking pictures, another Parrilla in the market place and more ice cream :-) We also have the pleasure of watching a delightful puppet show on the main square that evening where many local families had also gathered. It was lovely to watch all the children getting very exiting by the show.

Mendoza is of course a huge wine region for Argentina, so we of course make the most of this on Monday. We rent some bikes (with very hard saddles!) for the day and cycle around Chacrass (near Maipu, just outside of Mendoza) stopping at Bodegas (wineries) along the way to taste each of their wines. A very interesting experience to really see how this wonderful juice of life is made and the processes it goes through. Lunch is had at a winery, were we are served home-made pizza, together with two other couples from the USA, with whom we had spent the day with … very nice people. Needless to say we were cycling in zigzags by the end of the day with a good amount of wine sloshing around are veins after all the tasting! Of course, we also have the worst saddle soar of our lives for the days following.

At the end of the day, we’re given a lift in the back of a small pick up truck back to Mendoza. We waste some time in a café and at the hostel before taking out night bus at 10pm for Cordoba.

Cordoba; 15th-17th September

We arrive at Morada hostel in Cordoba on Tuesday morning, a nice enough hostel, with a funky bed cover, but walls made of paper, so rather noisy. We sleep for a few hours, wake up to find that it’s a steaming hot day, so we go out and have lunch at a Middle Eastern restaurant, Zete, which is not bad, then we walk around the city for a bit. We find our way to a food market where we buy some bits and pieces to make some dinner at the hostel. Chicken soup enjoyed with a bottle of wine purchased at one of the wineries in Mendoza. We sit and chat to Frederico for a while, who works at the hostel, we exchange music and he shows us the pictures on the internet of where his dad lives near Salta, where they provide horse riding expeditions ….

Wednesday is much cooler, and so is wasted walking around the city window shopping and having another Parrilla at La Parrilla de Raul, a place that has been going since 1906. After which Renu decides that she wants to be vegetarian for a few days. Nico cooks that night, so of course it’s pasta for dinner.

Thursday morning we go a Jesuit crypt in the city, an underground place discovered by telecom diggers twenty years ago, that was then used as a burial place after the expulsion of the Jesuits in the late 18th century. We have a healthy lunch at an Asian restaurant, walk around in the pouring rain a bit longer before going back to the hostel for a few hours preparing to take our night bus to Salta.

We decide that although Cordoba is a great student city, and must be fun to live in, it wasn’t really all that to visit as a tourist … that coupled with the second realisation (though not for the first time) that we don’t actually like spending time in cities….

Salta and Chicoana; 18th-22nd September

We arrive at our lovely Hostel in Salta, Salta por Siempre (Salta forever) at around 9.30am Friday morning. The usual drill, shower, out into town for brunch and then back at the hostel for a nap. In the evening we cook a spicy vegetarian meal and share this with Frankie (from Switzerland) and Lee (from South Korea) whom we meet at the hostel … a couple living in Paris, but also gave up everything to go travelling for a year. We spend a very lovely evening with them, later going out for a drink in town, on Balcarce, the bar and clubs street.

Saturday morning we walk for miles to a handicrafts market, that is not all that good, and then spend the rest of the day shopping for bits and pieces that we had run out of or that needed replacing … Nico gets new shoes :-) We had been told that Salta was a beautiful city, and we very much discovered that this was true during this shopping frenzy day. Nevertheless, we still have an early night, as we are keen to get out of the city and breath some country air for one night the next day.

It was a choice between Cafayate, three and half hour bus ride away, or Sayta Ranch(near the village of Chicoana), one hour away … the ranch that belonged to the father of Frederico, the guys we met at the hostel in Cordoba. We chose Sayta Ranch, given that we only had two days, one night, and didn’t want to waste 7 hours of this in transport.

Everything is arranged with Enrique (Frederico’s father) by phone on Saturday night, for them to pick us up at the hostel at 9am the following morning.

As planned, we’re picked up in a minibus at 9am, and taken to the ranch. We arrive, and within five minutes we note the enormity of Enrique’s personality! The morning is spent relaxing in the lovely ranch grounds, and preparing for the most enormous lunch we have ever had … a real meat feast. It was so lovely, as it was Sunday, and so Enrique’s family and friends were also there … a real homely feel amongst very nice people. We take a walk to the village in the afternoon to walk off all the food and take in the stupendous views on the way. Before dinner we have a crazy game of cards with Donna and Daniel (brother and sister from the USA) and Daphne (a Dutch girl that now lives at the ranch) … while enjoying Enrique’s home-made Cuba Libra’s … really good fun. We then all sit with Enrique for dinner at around 11pm, enjoying an Argentinean specialty, Tamal, maize stuffed parcels (delicious) and listening to Enrique talk about the political state of his country.

The next morning we lay in for a bit, have breakfast and then we’re on horseback for a few hours to enjoy the wonderful countryside around before another enormous lunch. It’s Renu’s first time on a horse, so an exciting but yet nervous experience for her, and of course the horse clearly understands that she has no idea what she is doing and so spends the whole time eating instead of moving forward! Not so different to Renu really … This is the second time the saddle soar hits us :-(

It’s sad to say goodbye after lunch, we’d had such a lovely time and were so happy to be away from the city … and of course we enjoyed Enrique’s company so much, we didn’t want to leave. Enrique also enjoyed our company and sends us off with a lovely bottle of wine, very sweet.

That evening we have a few drinks with some German girls we met on the bus ride back to Salta. And of course, a good night sleep before our long but very pretty bus ride through the Andes to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. Goodbye Argentina :-(.

For the pictures, click here, there, back here and over there.

Mendoza, Cordoba, Salta.

Mendoza: 12-14 septembre 2009

En arrivant tot samedi matin a Mendoza, nous rejoignons notre hotel, The Life House. Ce dernier est bien situe dans le centre, peu cher et juste assez confortable, jusqu’a ce que Nico casse la douche... une atmosphere assez bizarre regne cependant dans les lieux qui le soir venu semblent ce transfrmer en un club du troisieme age ou plusieurs personnes se rassemblent pour boire beaucoup de nieres, fumer beaucoup de cigarettes et regarder beaucoup la television avec le volume a fond.
Une fois la douche reparee et propres sur nous, direction la rue pietonne Sarmiento pour dejeuner. Nous marchons un peu et Nicolas decide tombe amoureux de toutes les vieilles voitures que nous croisons, essentiellement les Renault 12 et les Fuego pour les amateurs… Nous faisons une lessive, mangeons une glace et rentrons a l’hotel dormir car le bus de nuit n’est decidemment pas de tout repos.
Le soir nous allons prendre l’apero sur l’Avenida Villanueva, la rue des troquets branches de Mendoza avant de diner a l’Estancia La Florencia. Au menu : steak. Miam miam…

Dimanche est plutôt calme. Nous passons la plus grande partie de la journee a marcher et prendre des photos, dejeunons dans une autre parilla dans les halles locales et nous empifforns encore de glaces. Le soir nous avons le plaisir d’assister a un pectacle de marionettes sur la place proncipale de Mendoza ou de nombreuses familles et personnes de tous ages se sont rassemblees.

Mendoza etant situee dans la region vinicole la plus importante d’Argentine, le lundi nous louons des velos dans le petit village de Chacras (a 20 minutes de Mendoza) et faisons le tour de plusierus Bodegas ou nous  degustons et achetons quelques bouteilles. Nous dejeunons avec deux couples d’americains dans l’une des bodegas des delicieuses pizze mais toujours moins bonnes que celles de la grand mere de Nico. Renu a eu mal aux fesses a cause de la selle pendant les deux ou trois jours qui ont suivi. Nous rentrons le soir sur Mendoza ou nous tuons le temps jusqu'à 10h avant de prendre notre bus pour Cordoba.

Cordoba : 15-17 septembre 2009

Nous arrivons a l’hostel La Morada mardi matin. Dessus de lit en en fausse laine imprime tete de lion tres annees 80 et murs en papier mache, donc bruyant. Nous dormons quelques heures le matin et sortons  dejeuner dans un petit resto de cuisines Iranienne et Libanaise. Il fait un temps magnifique. Nous marchons beaucoup cet après midi la. Trouvons un marche couvert ou nous achetons de quoi preparer notre repas a l’hostel. Un bon bouillon de poulet a l’ancienne accompagne d’un tres bon vin que nous avions achete a la Bodega alta Vista a Chacras. Nous discutons un peu de musique avec Federico qui travaille a l’hostel pour financer ses etudes et il nous montre le site web de la maison d’hote tenue par son père pres de Salta,

Mercredi il fait gris et nous tuons donc le temps a coup de leche vitrine et avec un autre dejeuner dans une parilla, La Parilla de Raul, ouverte depuis 1906, ce après quoi renu decide qu’elle se voit bien vegetarienne pour les jours a venir. Le soir c’est Nico en cuisine donc pasta a volonte…

Jeudi matin, il pleut a torrents, nous visitons une crypte jesuite, redecouverte il y a une vingtaine d’annees pendant des travaux des telecoms. La crypte avait été transforme après l’expulsion des jesuites en une fosse commune pour lepreux, pestiferes et autres  au 18eme siecle avant d’etre condamnee et completement oubliee pendant plus de deux siecles. Nous dejeunons a La Mandarina un repas vegetarien tres bon avant de rentrer vers l’hotel preparer nos sacs car nous prenons un autre bus de nuit, cette fois pour Salta. Après reflexion, nous sommes d’accord pour dire que Cordoba doit etre geniale a vivre en tant qu’etudiant mais a tres peu d’interet touristique. Cela nous amene a une seconde  conclusion a laquelle nous etions déjà arrives auparavant : nous n’aimons pas du tout rester dans des villes, elles se ressemblent toutes.

Salta et Chicoana : 18-22 septembre 2009.

Nous arrivons a notre tres joli hostel Salta Por Siempre vendredi matin vers 9h30. Comme d’habitude : douche, dejeuner rapide en ville et retour a l’hostel pour sieste de recuperation busdenuitesque intensive. Le soir, Renu nous mijote un petit repas bien epice que nous partageons avec un couple rencontre a l’hostel, Frankie (de Suisse) et Lee (de Coree du Sud) qui vivent a Paris. Nous leur donnons plein d’infos sur leurs futures destinations (Bolivie et Perou). Nous passons une tres bonne soiree avec eux et finissons  par quelques verres dans le centre de Salta a Balcarce, la rue des bars et des clubs.

Samedi matin, nous marchons pendant au moins une heure jusqu'à un marche d’artisanat local, pas super et passons le reste de la journee a faire du shooping pour remplacer certaines de nos affaires qui commenecent a vieillir. Nicolas jette ses Converse pourries et achete de nouvelles baskets. On nous avait dit que Salta était une jolie ville et nous avons pu constater que c’était vrai. Cela ne nous empeceh pas de nous coucher tot car nous partons le lendemain tot respirer le bon  air frais de la campagne de Chicoana.
Nous avions le choiz entre Cafayate, a 3h30, ou Sayta Ranch (le papa de Federico), a une heure de Salta. Nous decidons donc le moins loin car nous n’avons que deux jours avant notre bus pour San Pedro de Atacama au Chili.
Nicolas arrange tout par telephone avec Enrique (le papa de Federico) le samedi soir pour qu’on vienne nous prendre en voiture le lendemain matin.

Comme prevu, a 9h la voiture est la et nous partons pour le Ranch. Nous arrivons et il nous faut moins de 5 minutes pour nous rendre compte a quel point Enrique est un personnage. Nous passons la matinee a lire (renu) et mettre a jour le blog (Nico qui a beaucoup de retard sur ce satane blog) pendant que les invites arrivent (essentiellement famille et amis d’Enrique) et que le barbecue avec une quantite impressinant de viande se prepare. LE repas est super, on se sent en famille, le vin rouge aidant. L’après midi, nous faisons une marche vers le village de Chicoana pour aider a la digestion (Nicolas s’endromira a la table du cafe ou nous nous arretons boire un fanta). Avant le diner, nous faisons une partie de carte avec Donna et Daniel (frere et sœur des US) et Daphne (de Hollande qui a decide de passer les 3 prochains mois au Ranch) en sirotant des Cuba Libre prepares par Enrique… On passe ensuite a table et degustons une specialite locale a base de mais, Tamal, tout en ecoutant le flot initerrompu d’Enrique qui est definitivement adorable.

Le lendemain matin, nous profitons un peu du lit avant le petit dejeuner. Ensuite, en sellepour quelques heures dans la camapagne environnante (une autre grande premiere pour Renu qui est desormais amoureuse des chiens, de Nicolas, des baleines et des chevaux…). Son anxiete face au cheval fait vite plave a une joie immense après son premier galop. Son cheval n’est cependant pas dupe et reconnait son amateur de passagere, alors il en profite et passe son temps a manger des qu’il le peut.

Ce fut difficile de dire au revoir a Enrique, aux chiens et aux chevaux… la ville ne nous a pas manque pendant ces deux jours. Enrique a été formidable et ne nous a pas laisse partir sans une bouteille de son merveilleux vin (fabrique par des moines benedictins pour l’eglise d’Argentine, il leur rachete l’excedent annuel de 700 litres !).
De retour a Slata le soir, nous prenons un verre avec deux allemandes rencontrees au Ranch et bien sur un bon dodo avant le bus qui part a 7h30 le lendemain pour un trajet de 7 heures jusqu'à San Pedro de Atacama. Hasta Pronto Argentina.

Pour les photos, c’est par la, la, la et la.


  1. suis fan de la série de photo "nico et les voitures"! trop bien


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